![]() Ĭan you see EGT s on a dash screen ? Can you see the load. This needs checking out via the up to date current Vodia Volvo diagnostic computer hooked up. Except the eventual and inevitable jacket temp overheat when it reaches as you say 95. Or some other deep ECU / EDC issues that over fuels that motor over 1810 rpm ?and does not throw a code on the dash. When where the injectors last pulled ? How much slow D speed running do you do ? Some common rail do quite well theses days at accommodate low rpm running ,Older motors less so and really need a good run out or a good 1/2 hr blast after a prolonged period of slow sub optimal running. Generally a lot of low rpm running out side optimum Exhaust Gas Temp ( EGT s ) lead to unburnt properly fuel sticking to the tips and “ clogging “ĭepends on the age of your motors the intelligence of the EDC / ECU s to change the fuelling, re calibrate it at low rpms. But theses are generic and could easily be masked by the size of the boat and the good engine, and underwater exhausts. Other signs according to Google are lumpy idle and gen feeling ( at higher rpms ) lack of power. If they don’t throw codes ? Then at higher rpms the flow of fuels higher = more heat. Your EDC and ECUs might or might not throw codes if the injector tips have “clogged “ Ok one last thing assuming the cooling system is ok. So are you saying it alarms bang on 1810 rpm irrespective of the water temp gauge? Theres a few mins of lag for the water temp to reach 84 ( Med sea temps ), to catch up with the rising rpms so to speak + where it stays no matter how high the rpm. ![]() Its just I wait until I see 60 on the gauges [ some one once advised ) then open them up. I was assuming it was climbing to the alarm chime level say 92/94 or what ever ? Even after all the work done and parts replaced ? You haven’t said what the water temp gauge is reading when you hit 1810 rpm. When you say it alarms off at 1810 rpm is that when they are basically cold or warmed up to 82/84 or what ever. You could swop the sensors round to verify them somewhat. But as you say odd the higher 35 is the alarming one ? If they are cam driven and the cams worn then maybe as VP said they can’t keep up at higher rpms ?ĭo they plateau out at or before 1800 rpm, the 33 and 35 psi you reported.Or do they continue to move up as the rpms risers, they should. Have you checked ( if available?) what the D12 spec s circulation pressure should be at around 1800 rpm upwards ? Different engines but same size FWIW gear driven so directly proportionate to engine speed. ![]() Mine are 39 psi at 1800 rpm rising to 45 at WOT. You have had the mechanical stuff stripped or replaced. I have the manuals and can dig out the exact location of the coolant P sensor, but it’s no use to your predicament. So all in all combined together - the jacket temp, CAC temp the coolant water P, the oil temp ( pressure is separate) you can get a pretty accurate picture of the coolant health. We also measure “Charge air temp “ to monitor the efficiency of the CAC. The pumps on mine are Jabsco off the shelf as far as iam aware theses no direct sensors on them. This begs the Q ….are both your oil temps the same when the alarm goes off ? The oil is cooled by a cooler too - closed system but nether the less, if there was an internal sea water pressure loss it’s temp would rise too. The sensors are on the engine somewhere measuring the circulation pressure around the coolers. The “ coolant pressure - water pump “ on mine are NOT on the pump. We don’t know what the base line pressure is. Īssuming the after market flow gauges are erroneous….JRudges point ^. Have you checked or replaced the black coolant pipes ? They can delaminate inside with age and restrict flow. There was never according to the engineer with a IR gun an actual overheat. Hence the eventual diagnosis of some sort of resistance breakdown in loom tripping the ECU into thinking it’s was a overheat despite the IR gun contradicting the gauge. We had previously fitted new thermostats, sensor and gauge. The problem followed the unbiblical wire. Also not mentioned have you infra red gunned them. It what my engineer did when I had KAD 300s. Could you change the unbiblical s over ?Doubt it’s feasible on D12.
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